Great European Cities, Ghent, Belgium

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The Belgian city is small, but its atmosphere and attractions offer big pleasure to vacationers

Ghent has a population of less than 500,000, but during the summer high season, its streets fill with twice that many people. Most visitors stop for a day to soak up some atmosphere, view a few masterpieces and drink the beer for which the Belgians are famous. But that is not enough time to appreciate the cozy nooks along its cobblestone streets, the interesting architecture of its medieval guild houses and the fine food that accompanies the beer.

Travelers who have been to the big cities and want to see the little places in between. It is about a 40-minute train ride from Brussels, which makes it ideal for travelers who have business in that city and want to get away for some leisure time. Families will find there is enough to keep children occupied, and the pint-size feel of the place suits children -as do the plentiful displays of chocolate in the storefronts.

Attractions: St. Baffoskathedral is the home of Mystic Lamb, a remarkable painting by Hubert and Jan van Eyck that was suffering from the ravages of age and modem-day pollution until American Express provided the funds for its restoration. The massive, two-sided triptych now sits safely behind glass in a well-humidified space.

The city's name comes from the Celtic word meaning "where two rivers meet," which in this case would be the Schelde and the Lys. The rivers' symbols appear over the archway that leads to the old fish market. Ghent is one of the few cities in Europe with a castle right in the center of town. The 800-year-old Castle of the Counts was built to protect the nobility from the wrath of people who were beset by high taxes. It homes a few oddities, such as the Museum of Torture, which might not be the best attraction for small children.

In the 1960s the government renovated a few buildings in the city's red-light district and encouraged local businesses to move in. As a result, the area now homes bistros, bars, cafes and restaurants that are comfortable and trendy.

The harborside, just a five-minute walk from the castle, is also undergoing a refurbishment. Lined with large and small guild homes, the riverside is also chockablock with wonderful stores. Among them is Temmerman's, a sweets shop that features an infinite number of treats, including local specialties such as ginger cakes and almond cookies, as well as the ubiquitous Belgian chocolates and marzipan.

On Fridays the market square comes alive with fresh fish, meats, local produce and gift boxes filled with Belgian chocolates for a fraction of the price charged at the airport duty-free shop. The proprietors at Tierenteyn-Verlent, just off the Groentenmarkt, have been producing fine mustard since 1790.

In contrast to the city's medieval atmosphere is the Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art, which is slated to open this month. Set inside the newly renovated Casino building in Citadel Park, it will be the first museum in Belgium to be devoted exclusively to contemporary art. The museum's contents and design are somewhat controversial.

Ghent has more than 350 restaurants. One of the hip new spots is Parkhuis (Schuurkenstraat 4), which is set in a 19th-century warehouse. Visitors should expect to pay about $70 for a meal that includes oysters, a warm goat-cheese salad, Dover sole, three varieties of mousse for dessert and wine.

Ghent's bars are social meeting places that happen to serve unbelievable varieties of beer. Why do Belgians drink so much beer? They say that historically, the water was not to be trusted, so the citizenry developed processes to produce beer. It is not unusual to find even the tiniest bars offering three dozen brands.

Among the interesting bars is Velottje (Patershol, Kalversteeg 2), which is filled with items that will remind clients of things they left behind in their grandmother's attic. The jokesters at Hecberg de Dulle Griet (Vrijdagmarkt 50) may ask for a patron's shoe, which will be placed in a basket that is raised to the ceiling until they finish drinking lots of beer from an unusually shaped beaker. Last, but hardly least, is the very homey Chez Leontine (Groentenmarkt 11), tucked in a comer right on the harbor. Like the other two, it is patronized by locals who know a good beer when they taste it. Among the outstanding brews is a Trappist monk creation called Chimay, which is dark and tasty.

Accommodations: Ghent's hotel inventory features two four-star properties and a dozen three-star properties. Among the best-located hotels are the three-star Novotel Ghent Centrum is less than a five-minute walk from St. Baffoskathedral and the Opera. A standard double costs $145 per night; add $15 for the buffet breakfast. A standard room at the four-star Sofitel Ghent Belfort, which also is near the Cathedral, is $150 per night, including breakfast, during the "Sofitel Summer Special" season. For a slightly more authentic stay, the three-star Hotel Gravensteen is a converted 19th-century mansion. The modern amenities include individual heating controls, TV, a telephone and a minibar. Some rooms have a hair dryer and air conditioning. The hotel also has its own bar and restaurant. A standard double ranges from $110 to $125 per night.

Getting There: Sabena has twice-daily service to Brussels from New York-JFK and daily service from Newark, Atlanta (a second flight will be added in November), Cincinnati, Boston, Chicago and Montreal.

Major Selling Points: Ghent is long on attractions, art history and a feel of medieval life, but it has all the modem accouterments.

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