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American Orient Express
Crossing Canada in style
Train travel brings fond memories for many passengers boarding the American Orient Express (AOE) in Vancouver, Canada. A 90-year old gentleman on its fifth AOE trip signs, "As a young boy, I used to go down to the station to hear the trains breathe. We had steam engines in those days." Another passenger brings his collection of train timetables from the 1950s. Still others have packed bird books, binoculars, cameras and sturdy walking shoes. This is no ordinary train trip from point A to Point B. For the next nine days and eight nights, the group will explore the vast Canadian landscape - from Vancouver to Montreal - in luxurious style.
Champagne and mellow piano tunes set the mood in the Rocky Mountain Club car as the AEO slowly departs Vancouver and snakes up the lush Fraser River Valley. Passengers sink into big comfy chairs in the Seattle Club Car and New York Observation Car, too, drinking in the scenery before dinner. In the Chicago and Zurich dining carriages, tables are elegantly set with china, silver and crystal on linen.
AOE chef Evan Waters and his staff sometimes adapt gourmet recipes from the Twentieth century Limited Trains, the Canadian Pacific Railway or Harvey House Cookbooks. Often, however, the menu reflects regional cuisine. "Bison and venison are about as wild as we get," remarks Chef Waters.
Sightseeing
Morning brings steep river canyons, stands of white birch, glimpses of glaciers and a peek at cloud-capped Mt. Robson, tallest in the Canadian Rockies. In the club cars, a special lecture series begins with geologist Dr. Ian Campbell talking about Canadian landscape formations and Les Hurt, of how Canadian History was shaped by the railways. Audubon host, Mike Dawson discusses birds and binoculars as the train crosses the Continental Divide in late afternoon and roll into Jasper for the next two nights.
Jasper National Park, largest in the Canadian Rockies, brims with wildlife, waterfalls, hot springs and massive ice fields. Travelers climb the park’s amazing Athabasca Glacier by snocoach, and continue by bus to the dramatic Maligne Canyon before returning to see elk grazing near train. Next morning some people hike to Casper Park Lodge for birdwatching and canoeing, then shuttle by bus to Pyramid Lake. Easing across Alberta and into Saskachewan the same evening, all are dazzled by the spectacular Northern Lights.
"It was our ancestors dancing in the sky," explains a young Cree Guide at Wanuskewin near Saskatoon the following day. Bison, bannock, tipi-building and native dancing are featured at this heritage park built on an ancient buffalo jump. The group also explores a 1910 prairie town at the Western Development Museum, before wine-tasting in New York’s Observation Car and riding on to Winnipeg overnight.
A Winnipeg city tour and visit to the museum of Man and Nature, follows with lunch at historic Fort Garry Hotel and shopping at the trendy Forks market where the Red and Assiniboine rivers meet. Departing mid-afternoon, onboard lecture series resume with WWF host, Steve Primm. Briefly dipping into the U.S. on a rarely-used rail stretch, the train makes tracks out of Manitoba towards Ontario‘s Thunder Bay on Lake Superior. Here at Old Fort William, center of the Northwest Company’s fur-trading empire, travelers experience early 1800’s living.
The lectures continue to inform guests about bears, birds, landscapes and languages, while crossing the vast Canadian Shield. Misty lakes and marshes rush past by as travelers sip afternoon tea in the observation car. Nearing the end of the journey, farewell cocktails and dinner are nightcapped with sentimental songs around pianist, Pat Kennedy, in the Rocky Mountain Club Car.
Morning dawns in Canada’s impressive capital of Ottawa, where passengers tour the parliament, gardens and magnificent Museum of Civilization. Just hours later, the train arrives into the Montreal train station to exchange hugs and addresses with fellow passengers and crew before going separate ways. Some opt to stay at the downtown hotel, to explore the charming old city via Le Tram Montreal, practice French and finally walk without that train wobble.
Other Itineraries
Though American Orient Express has been operating in USA for several years, new ownership is making it bigger and better. From March to November 1999, the AOE crisscrosses the continent with eight theme tours like the "Jazz & Blues Express" from New Orleans to Chicago, or "American Heritage" from Montreal to Washington D.C. The 1999 season will see two new tours: "French Canada & the St. Lawrence Seaway" and the "Pacific Coast Explorer"
Prices
Prices vary depending on the duration of the trip, season and cabin selections: prices range from $1,990 to $7,890 per person. Cost include most meals, excursions and some nights in a hotel as necessary. Luxury trains come with a price, but the AOE tours are worth every penny...
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